I haven’t been impressed by a fashion show for a very long time. If you’ve been following Alley Girl, you’ve probably noticed the silence. Months went by without a single runway review. Nothing had that spark. The spark that makes you pause your day, pour a coffee, watch every look—then spend hours thinking about it afterward.
Because let’s be honest: most collections lately have felt like déjà vu. Everything recycled, everything safe. Even brands I have adored—The Row, Khaite, even Phoebe Philo’s long-awaited return—have been circling the same tired minimalism, never quite stirring the old excitement.
But then came Jacquemus’ Le Paysan show.
And everything shifted.
Jacquemus Spring-Summer 2026 Review
1. A Show That Demanded My Attention
If you had told me last year that Simon Porte Jacquemus would stage a collection so tender, so technically refined, and so brimming with memory that it would eclipse the noise of every other luxury house, I wouldn’t have believed you.
Yet there I was, eyes fixed on my screen as the models drifted through L’Orangerie at the Palace of Versailles. A building full of history. A place that felt deeply connected to earth, to heritage, to roots. Somehow, this was the only setting that could hold such an intimate tribute.
This wasn’t merely a show—it was a love letter to Simon’s family stories.
2. Memory as Muse
Le Paysan, which translates to The Peasant, is a concept only Jacquemus could pull off without irony or cliché. According to the designer himself, this collection is an autobiographical journey that begins in the fields of Provence and blossoms into a couture dreamscape.
He wrote on Instagram:
“I want to create an autobiographical journey…one that begins in the countryside, soft and minimal, with linen as the foundation. From there, it gradually transforms, blossoming into an explosion of bonbon hues, stripes, embroidery, and prints.”
It shows. From the first look—a sculptural linen apron dress—to the finale gowns shimmering with sugar-almond pastels, the collection unfolded like a photo album brought to life.
3. The Craftsmanship: Impeccable Yet Playful
When I think of this show, what stays with me most is the balance: simplicity merging into sophistication.
- 700 meters of cord twisted into a bobbin dress so airy it looked like a dream
- Sheer mousseline sheaths embroidered with silk taffeta diamonds
- Leather leeks, green beans, and eggs transformed into surreal jewelry
- Aprons flipped inside out, lined with corsetry and delicate embroidery
Every piece was rooted in the everyday—farming tools, market stalls, grandmother’s linens—but elevated into something almost holy.
4. Why This Collection Feels Different
A lot of brands try to romanticize rural life, but it often rings hollow, like a marketing gimmick. Here, you could feel the authenticity.
This wasn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. It was Simon revisiting his origins, but with the eyes of a grown man and the skills of a master couturier. That’s why this collection moved me so much: it felt like watching Jacquemus grow up—without losing the joy that made us fall in love with him in the first place.
5. The Womenswear: Couture Through the Lens of Provence
The womenswear had a narrative clarity you don’t often see anymore. It moved seamlessly from rustic to refined:
- Voluminous Jupons: Billowing skirts that looked like old tablecloths catching the wind.
- Structured Jackets: Shaped with internal corsets—half apron, half armor.
- Monogram Embroidery: A subtle “J” stitched into collars and cuffs, a reminder of Simon’s signature touch.
- Sugared-Almond Colors: Baby blue, pale pink, lemon yellow—soft but confident.
Even the simplest linen dress had an undercurrent of quiet power.
6. The Menswear: Rustic Masculinity Reimagined
If you’ve ever read Marcel Pagnol or watched old French cinema, you could see those references here—workwear transformed into poetry:
- Cropped jackets in milky white and straw beige
- Wide-legged trousers with gentle herringbone weaves
- Breezy linen shirts buttoned all the way up, almost monastic in their purity
- Berets and espadrilles tied with ribbons—a wink to Provençal tradition
This is the kind of menswear that feels fresh because it dares to be gentle.
7. Accessories: Whimsy Meets Artistry
I have to confess: I gasped when I spotted the leather leeks and garlic garlands. They were sculptural, funny, and somehow still refined.
One of the most striking aspects of the Jacquemus Le Paysan show 2025-26 was how the styling blurred the line between function and ornament. Simon Porte Jacquemus didn’t just show accessories—he embedded them into the garments so they became part of the silhouette itself.
- Bags Peeking Through Layers:
Several looks featured classic Jacquemus woven and leather bags tucked underneath sheer tulle skirts or nestled under long poplin tops, so they peeked through like hidden treasures. This unexpected layering transformed everyday bags into part of the garment’s structure—an homage to both utility and artistry. - Shoes Rooted in Provençal Tradition:
Footwear felt thoughtfully chosen to underline the show’s rural elegance. Models wore espadrilles wrapped in grosgrain ribbons, delicate kitten-heel sandals in milky white leather, and rustic loafers that echoed farm workwear but rendered in the finest materials. - Jewelry as Sculptural Pop Art:
Jewelry was not merely decorative—it was a surreal punctuation mark:- Leek earrings in sculpted metal
- Green bean necklaces looped like garlands
- Egg pendants with a polished, almost fetishistic finish
Each piece referenced market stalls and harvests, but with a sense of irony that kept the collection playful.
- Berets and Headscarves:
Models also wore crocheted berets and Arlésian shawls, nodding to regional dress but styled with a modern, minimalist restraint.
They were the perfect punctuation marks to the collection’s story.
8. The Setting: Versailles as a Metaphor
Choosing L’Orangerie at Versailles wasn’t just about spectacle. This building, historically used to grow and protect orange trees, symbolizes cultivation—the patient work of nurturing something fragile into full bloom.
It mirrors Simon’s own trajectory. From a teenager in the South of France dreaming of fashion to the founder of a globally respected house, he has cultivated a vision that feels singular and emotionally rich.
9. What This Means for Jacquemus
I’ve always loved Jacquemus, but sometimes the brand is strolling around dangerously close to commercial saturation. You know the feeling—when success dulls the edge. (2010s massive commercial success Michael Kors, I’m looking at you.)
But Le Paysan reclaims Jacquemus’ soul. It proves that even in an industry obsessed with virality, you can still create something deeply personal and profoundly beautiful.
I’ve started to see Jacquemus now alongside houses like Loewe—not just as a brand of the moment, but as a house with a point of view that will last.
10. Final Thoughts: A Reawakening
When I finished watching this show, I felt something I hadn’t in years: renewed excitement.
Fashion isn’t dead. Creativity isn’t over. We just need designers brave enough to dig into their own stories and share them without artifice.
Simon Porte Jacquemus has done that. And with this collection, he’s proven that even in a world that feels creatively exhausted, there is still room for wonder.
Ready to See the Show
If you haven’t watched the show, I highly recommend you take 20 minutes, clear your mind, and let Le Paysan transport you. You’ll understand why I finally felt compelled to write again.
👉 Shop Jacquemus pieces inspired by the show
All images are sourced via jacquemus.com
